I awoke, just before the dawn, and could hear the surf...... I knew it was gonna be a good swell, I also realized, it was the day of Jimmy's funeral..... I got up, made some toast, grabbed my stick, and skate..... it's a good day to surf, I head down the alley, past the bumms, and drunks....ollie the pot holes, and race down the hill, to the beach..... perfect rights, offshore, and real clean....6', and hollow...... I love mornings like this....and so does 500 of my closest friends..... over cro…
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Posted on February 15th, 2008 at 7:50pm —
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